It was a “dark, evil wave” that almost killed him, but for Australian surfer Kerby Brown, riding this 12m (40ft) monster in his own backyard was one of the highlights of his surfing career.
The 25-year-old surfed the enormous break at an outdoor reef in the Southern Ocean “somewhere between Margaret River and South Australia” on the southwest coast of Western Australia (WA) last August.
Local surfers discovered the break – the exact location of which they want to keep secret – after deep-sea fisherman alerted them to the amazing waves they had seen about 15km (9 miles) off the coast.
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